Everything Science Forum

http://ssfruit.cas.psu.edu/chapter9/chapter9a.htm

Several blueberry species are indigenous to the United States. These include the lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium), which is of commercial importance in Maine and Canada; the rabbit eye blueberry (V. ashei), which is grown commercially in the southern United States; and the highbush blueberry (V. corymbosum), which is the commercial blueberry of importance in Pennsylvania and in the mid-Atlantic and midwestern regions of the United States. The information that follows pertains solely to highbush blueberry production.

The highbush blueberry plant is indigenous to North America, but its value as a commercial fruit crop has been exploited only in the past 60 years or so. Original breeding work and research was conducted by Mrs. Elizabeth White and Dr. Frederick Coville, beginning shortly after the turn of the century.

The blueberry plant is a perennial, consisting of a shallow root system and woody canes that originate from the crown of the plant. The root system is very fibrous but devoid of root hairs. (Root hairs in most plants function by increasing the surface area of the root for water and nutrient uptake.) This characteristic makes the blueberry plant very sensitive to changing soil water conditions.

A mature cultivated blueberry usually has 15 to 18 canes. Its growth habit varies among cultivars, with some bushes growing very upright and others having a more spreading growth habit. The fruit is borne on buds that are formed the previous growing season.

Cold Hardiness

Blueberries generally will tolerate temperatures to -20°F, although cultivars vary somewhat. Most require 750 hours of chilling below 45°F. In Pennsylvania, this requirement is met usually by no later than early February. After the chilling requirement is met, the plant loses its dormancy and thus its cold hardiness with each warm period, making it increasingly susceptible to cold injury as the season progresses.

Soils

The best soils for blueberries are moist, porous, and acid. The soil pH should be between 4.5 and 5.0. A lower pH can result in manganese or aluminum toxicity, while a higher pH results in the unavailability of certain nutrients, most notably iron. In southern New Jersey, blueberries are grown on very sandy soils in areas where the water table is very shallow, so they can be canal irrigated when needed. Many parts of Pennsylvania do not have these very light soils, so soils usually need to be amended.

Preparation

In the year before planting, eliminate all noxious weeds, increase soil organic matter by manure application and/or cover crops, and test the soil. Soil test kits are available from county extension offices. Amend the soil according to test recommendations. The effects of sulfur (to lower the soil pH) and phosphorus (if needed) require time, so these materials should be added in the fall before planting. Potassium can be added either in the fall or when nitrogen is applied in the spring. Do not plant blueberry plants in high-pH soils without amending them first! Because sulfur does not move readily through the soil, surface sulfur applications after the plants are in place are ineffective in lowering the pH, and the plants will not thrive.

Irrigation and Mulch

Because the blueberry plant is very sensitive to fluctuating soil moisture, mulch and irrigation are essential for a healthy planting and consistent yields. Blueberry plants require at least 1 inch of water per week. Hardwood bark mulch (such as that used for landscaping), rotted sawdust, and chopped corncobs are good mulches. They should be applied to a depth of 4 inches and replenished whenever necessary. Avoid mulches with high pHs such as mushroom compost or noncomposted leaves, which may be high in natural toxins.

Although either overhead or trickle irrigation can be used on blueberries, trickle irrigation both conserves moisture and supplies the plant with adequate water. The trickle line can be placed under the mulch so it is out of the way and, in some cases, semipermanent. Because the small emitter holes in trickle irrigation components clog easily, the water must be from a very clean source (such as municipal water, a well, or a clean spring), or filtered through a 'sand' filter. Overhead irrigation has the advantage of cooling the plants and the berries during extremely high temperatures.

Cultivar Selection

Appropriate cultivar selection is crucial for any perennial crop. Blueberry cultivars can be selected so they can be harvested from July through mid-September, if desired. The table ( http://ssfruit.cas.psu.edu/chapter9/table9-1.htm ) gives specific characteristics of the blueberry cultivars. A description of some of the available ones follows.

Berkeley: Bush is tall, open, and spreading but tends to drop fruit, affecting mechanical harvest efficiency. Berries are very large, light blue, firm, and store well in spite of a large stem scar. Flavor is only fair. Clusters tend to be hidden by heavy foliage, which slows hand picking. Berkeley is a poor shipper unless picked early in the ripening period. Production can be inconsistent; tends to be susceptible to fungus diseases during wet seasons. Winter hardiness is limited.

Bluecrop: Best early midseason variety presently available; bush is vigorous and upright, but canes tend to be slender and whippy, which may make for difficult mechanical harvest. Fruit is medium and numerous, firm, small scarred, good flavored, and resistant to cracking. Cultivar has shown consistently high production and good winter hardiness; season tends to be prolonged, making it impossible to harvest in one picking. Berries appear to be ripe (completely blue) well before full sweetness is achieved, so they should be picked 5 to 7 days after the full blue color is present. Field resistant to shoestring and red ringspot virus; moderately resistant to mummy berry and powdery mildew.

Bluehaven: Bushes are upright and productive but not sufficiently hardy for northern areas. Berry is large, light blue, and exceptionally flavorful. Scar is small and dry.

Bluejay: Bush is vigorous, upright, and open; berries are long-stemmed and hang in loose clusters; they hold on bush without loss of quality and until most are ripe. Fruit is medium-sized, firm, and light blue with a small stem scar; wood and buds are resistant to low winter temperatures; flowers are less resistant to frost than Bluecrop; resistant to mummy berry and field resistant to shoestring virus. Production is sometimes erratic.

Blueray: Plant is vigorous and propagates easily; fruit is borne on small tight clusters, which may make it difficult to harvest mechanically; tight clusters can cause berries to drop, especially in hot weather. Berries are large, dark blue, and firm, with medium scar and good flavor. Consistently productive, but may overproduce if not pruned properly. Upright spreading habit, very hardy.

Bluetta: Bushes are short, compact, and of medium vigor; fruit is medium sized, soft, and blue-black with fair flavor. Stem scars tend to be broad; fruit can hang on for a long period. Consistency of production may be a problem. Bush is small, low growing, and spreading. Winters well, and does not break dormancy too early.

Collins: Ripens about 5 to 7 days after Earliblue; susceptible to winter injury; bush is vigorous and upright with some spreading canes. May not sucker freely. Fruit is large, firm, light blue, and has very good flavor and a small scar. Has narrow soil adaptation and produces only moderately.

Coville: Bush is very vigorous, moderately upright with open fruit clusters, excellent for machine harvest; needs bee concentration for best pollination; berry is large, medium blue, highly aromatic, tart; fruit is susceptible to anthracnose disease; occasionally does not set fruit well, thus limiting its productivity. Narrow soil adaptation and produces only moderately.

Earliblue: Season is early, bush is vigorous and upright-spreading; fruit is large, firm, and light blue with fair flavor. Not recommended commercially in many areas because of erratic fruit set. Fruit does not drop easily when ripe. Plants have some resistance to powdery mildew.

Elliott: Latest of all cultivars. Bush is vigorous and upright; plants are very productive, hardy, and resistant to mummy berry disease. Berry size is medium, light blue, with firm flesh and only fair flavor; late small fruit can be tart, and berry can be fully blue when not fully ripe. Interplanting with another late-blooming variety has provided cross-pollination and improved size and flavor.

Elizabeth: Purported to be extremely flavorful with very large berries. No longer commercially important because of inconsistent productivity, but of interest to home gardeners because of excellent flavor. Ripens mid-season.

Jersey: Bush is vigorous and erect with open fruit cluster, very good for machine harvesting. Medium-sized firm fruit with good color and fair flavor; may have fruit set problems; tends to set parthenocarpically, but without pollination fruit does not size. Considered by some to have sweetest flavor.

Lateblue: Bush is erect, vigorous, and very productive. Berries are firm, light blue in color, have small stem scars, and are fine flavored, but tart; high temperature during harvest may lead to excessive stemminess.

Patriot: Ripens with Collins; plant is upright and vigorous, though only small to medium in height. Fruit is large, firm, with a small dry scar, and of excellent flavor. Patriot was developed in Maine and has excellent cold hardiness; plants are resistant to root rot. Fruit must be completely ripe to have good flavor. Hardy during winter, but blooms early and is subject to frost.

Rubel: A wild selection with small firm fruit. Bush is erect and very productive. Flavor is fair. Plants are very stemmy during drought or if harvest is delayed.

Spartan: Plants are vigorous, upright, and open; fruits are large, firm, light blue, and highly flavored, but plant performs poorly on amended upland soils; partially resistant to mummy berry. Blooms late, but harvests relatively early. Late bloom date helps prevent frost injury.
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New Cultivars

The following are new cultivars for trial:

Brigitta: Bred in Australia from a Lateblue X Bluecrop cross. Upright vigorous bush with production similar to Bluecrop in Australia. Fruit large and firm with a small dry scar. Very light blue. Clusters are loose and ripening is concentrated. Excellent fruit quality and shelf life. Limited availability in the United States.

Duke: A vigorous, upright bush bearing medium-sized, light blue, firm fruit with a small dry scar. Blooms late, avoiding early frosts, but ripens relatively early, slightly after Bluetta. Plant has numerous canes that are stocky and moderately branched. Buds and wood tolerate fluctuating winter temperatures well. Harvest can be completed in two or three pickings. Flavor is mild-sweet.

Sierra: A vigorous, upright, productive bush. Fruit is medium sized with a small dry scar, good color, and excellent flavor and firmness. Because Sierra is an interspecific hybrid of four species, its cold hardiness is unknown.

Sunrise: Moderately vigorous bush, taller, more upright, and easier to manage than Bluetta. Fruit is similar to that of Bluetta in size and color, but scar, firmness, and flavor are superior. Early season fruit is suitable for commercial packing and pick-your-own. Resistant to red ringspot virus.

Toro: A vigorous, upright bush that is consistently highly productive. Fruit is medium sized with small, dry scars and good color and flavor. Begins ripening with Bluecrop but has a concentrated ripening, and harvest can be completed in two pickings. Tolerates fluctuating winter temperatures well.

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I planted three bushes last year: Bluejay,  Jersey and Bluecrop, and yesterday (Jul 18) I planted a Blueray and another Jersey.

The Bluejay began ripening late June and still has fruit.  The yield is small (but satisfactory) since it is only a one year old plant.  The Jersey is just starting to ripen, and the blue crop will ripen in about 2 weeks (early August).
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I heard about this a while ago. Among foods, many fruits have health benefits in the form of antioxidants, but blueberries appear to be especially potent. Here is an article:

http://www.ushbc.org/health.htm

Eating blueberries may help you remember where you placed your car keys-important findings if you’d like to keep Alzheimer’s and heart disease at bay.
The research was presented Monday, August 19, at the ACS national meeting in Boston.

In one study, Jim Joseph, director of the neuroscience laboratory in the USDA Human Nutrition Center (HNRCA), fed blueberry extractions-the equivalent of a human eating one cup of blueberries a day-to mice and then ran them through a series of motor skills tests.

He found that the blueberry-fed mice performed better than their control group counterparts in motor behavioral learning and memory, and he noticed an increase in exploratory behavior. When he examined their brains, he found a marked decrease in oxidative stress in two regions of the brain and better retention of signal-transmitting neurons compared with the control mice.

The chemical that appears responsible for this neuron protection, anthocyanin also gives blueberries their color and might be the key component of the blueberry’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

I love blueberries. When I lived in Minnesota I remember hearing about how blueberries were being cultivated in that state. Apparently the species planted had to be selected to survive the cold winters-there can be stretches where the temperature struggles to get above -20F.

The beneficial properties of blueberries were recognized several years ago.  I remember that, because overnight, the price of blueberries jumped significantly from less than $1/pint to about $4/pint.  Lots of people got into cultivating blueberries, and that has brought the price down.

Blueberries are of course seasonal as are any berry plant in the temperate latitudes.  I don't have know knowledge of berries in the tropics.

For a longer production season, one needs different varieties.  Of course, diversity is always good.

I love blueberries. When I lived in Minnesota I remember hearing about how blueberries were being cultivated in that state. Apparently the species planted had to be selected to survive the cold winters-there can be stretches where the temperature struggles to get above -20F.

Blueberries grow wild here in Manitoba, in the coniferous forests (there are times when the winter temperatures struggle to stay above -30).  I would imagine it is the same species that grows in Minnesota.

I don't remember the details too well and I don't know what blueberries grow native to Minnesota, but I know that they were introducing a new variety or varieties for purposes of commercial agriculture which I think included pick-your-own fields. Not that I'm an agriculture expert (there are many in Minnesota, BTW, the University of MN has a strong program in agriculture) but clearly there is optimization to be done in picking varieties-hardiness, growing season, productiveness and so on.

Oh and about the temperatures. It always amused me that Minnesotans when talking about the weather would talk about the coldness of their state-International Falls is the "icebox" and they would treat Manitoba to the North like it didn't exist. I'd watch the weather forecasts on WCCO or KARE and the maps would have the temperatures plotted over the state. Over the Canadian border-nothing, a complete blank! :033102luf_1_prv.gif:

I could see that.  Wild blueberries don't grow as large nor as many on a bush as farmed varieties.

Oh and about the temperatures. It always amused me that Minnesotans when talking about the weather would talk about the coldness of their state-International Falls is the "icebox" and they would treat Manitoba to the North like it didn't exist. I'd watch the weather forecasts on WCCO or KARE and the maps would have the temperatures plotted over the state. Over the Canadian border-nothing, a complete blank!

The weather forecasts on the local stations here do the same to the US.  Minnesota and North Dakota are the grey areas to the south.   :033102luf_1_prv.gif:

Continuation of PSU information

Planting

As with other small fruit crops, a blueberry planting should be planned at least one year in advance. The soil should be tested and sulfur and phosphorus applied (if needed) during the fall prior to planting. Because most blueberry cultivars are not well adapted to heavy upland soils, most soils will require considerable amendment with organic matter if plants are to thrive. Manure application and/or the use of cover crops in the year prior to planting will increase soil organic matter. Sawdust or peat moss also should be worked into the planting hole, replacing about one-half of the original soil with the organic material. After watering in and applying the fertilizer, mulch the plants heavily along the length of the row with about 4 inches of rotted sawdust or other organic matter. Avoid using green sawdust, since it may burn the tender green stems and will compete with the plant for nitrogen.

Immediately after planting, prune back 50 to 60 percent of the wood. Remove the flowers from two-year-old plants completely, so the plant will become well established. Sacrificing this small amount of fruit is well worth the dividend of establishing a planting that will fruit for 50 years or more if well maintained! Some of the crop also should be removed the following year, again to encourage sound establishment.

Nutritional needs

If the soil is properly prepared prior to planting, only nitrogen fertilizer is required on an annual basis. Do not fertilize in the first year, as the root system is very susceptible to root burning at this stage. In subsequent years, always fertilize with ammonium sulfate in March or April. To each plant, apply 4 oz ammonium sulfate in year two, 5 oz in year three, 6 oz in year four, 7 oz in year five, and 8 oz in year six and subsequent years. If nutrient-deficiency symptoms (light green or red leaves in the summer, poor growth, poor yield) appear, retest the soil to make sure the pH is between 4.5 and 5.0.

Pollination

Most plantings will produce satisfactory crops when only one cultivar is included, but pollen from other cultivars generally will result in increased yields, larger fruits, and earlier ripening. A planting design in which a row of one cultivar is alternated with a row of another cultivar will encourage cross-pollination. Make sure there is good bee activity. A honeybee hive in the vicinity will provide consistently high yields and better berries.

Pruning

Pruning controls the crop load, thus increasing fruit quality. It also invigorates the plant, forcing essential new growth from the base of the plant. The philosophy behind blueberry pruning is to constantly renew the older, decreasingly productive canes by cutting them out and forcing new canes. The plant is continually replacing old canes with new canes, while the majority of the canes are in a productive, intermediate stage.

Pruning is best accomplished toward the end of the dormant season, usually sometime in March. Fall pruning is not recommended, since it can force the plant to produce new shoots that will be killed by winter cold. In March, fruit buds are easily recognizable, as they are plumper than vegetative buds (see Figure 1). For the first growing season, all of these fruit buds should be removed. This forces vegetative growth in the plant. This first year should be spent establishing the plant which, if properly cared for, will bear fruit for 50 years or more.

Figure 2 shows a mature blueberry plant before and after pruning. To prune, first remove small spindly branches and canes that lie on the ground. When thinning canes, try to maximize light conditions inside the plant by removing the centermost canes, which block the sunlight. Once the plant is mature (6 years old), it should be producing three to five new shoots per year. If it is not, check your fertilizer program. The production of new shoots is somewhat cultivar dependent, and some may not respond as well as others. Every year, select the best two to three new canes to retain. After 5 years, begin removing the oldest (5 years or older) canes while retaining the three best new canes. This will result in a plant that has two to three canes each of new, 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-year-old canes, or 10 to 15 canes. As with any biological system, this is an optimal range; many plants will deviate from this ideal.

After removing the canes, thin those that remain. To do this, remove weak lateral branches and dense bushy twigs. Thin erect cultivars more in the center of the bush, while removing the low-spreading growth of more spreading cultivars. Long canes with many flower buds also should be headed back to remove some of the crop. Bear in mind that thicker wood will bear larger berries, which bloom slightly later. The later blooming can be an advantage where late frosts are a problem.

If plants have not been pruned for many years, they can be rejuvenated by cutting back all of the canes and allowing regrowth, or by cutting back half the canes in one year and half in the following year. The latter method may be preferred by commercial growers, since it prevents a lapse in cropping.

Spreading (open) growth habit: Most of the pruning of plants in this category should be directed to the outer edge of the bush. Keeping the growth habit pruned to a more erect form facilitates cultural operations and harvesting. Recommended for Berkeley, Bluetta, Coville, Weymouth, and Patriot.

Upright (erect) habit: Plants in this category become dense in the center. The denseness causes shading that reduces both shoot formation and flower bud initiation. Remove the older central canes to produce a better growth situation. Recommended for Bluecrop, Blueray, Collins, Darrow, Earliblue, Herbert, Jersey, Lateblue, and Elliot.

Vigorous varieties yield better when “thinned out” rather than “detail” pruned. The entire removal of older canes (6 years and older) has a beneficial effect on yield and growth. This is especially applicable for Earliblue, Collins, Blueray, Herbert, and Coleville.

Weak (slow-growing) varieties usually produce many short, weak shoots that lack productivity. Detailed pruning (removing short one-year growth) will improve overall berry quality on the remaining shoots. The systematic removal of thin shoots (less than 1/8 inch in diameter) and those less than 6 inches long will improve fruit quality. This is of special importance when pruning Bluetta.

Harvesting and Storage

A mature blueberry plant will produce 6 to 10 pounds (7 to 10 pints) of fruit per year. Harvest begins in June for cultivars such as Earliblue, and may continue through mid-September for Lateblue. Berries turn blue 3 to 4 days before they attain maximum sweetness and flavor. They should be picked every 7 to 10 days. Do not pick berries with a reddish tinge, since they are underripe.

Blueberries, like other fruits, should be picked in the morning after the dew has evaporated. If picked in the afternoon, the berries more likely will contain field heat, which needs to be removed in cooling. This is not only difficult to do, but also makes the berry more susceptible to postharvest breakdown.

Cellophane covers reduce water loss from the berries. After harvest, store at 32°F in 90 to 95 percent relative humidity. Under these conditions, blueberries will keep for about 14 days.

The information on pests seems much worse that it actually is.  This is my second year with blueberries, and the pests do not seem too bad.  I started with three plants, and they are managable.  I check them daily in the moring and evening.  In the winter time, I don't worry about pests - it's too cold, so that leaves spring through fall.  Late spring to early fall are the times for vigilance, but with few plants, one can usaully control pests.  I practice organic gardening - i.e. I do not use pesticides.  Instead I manually remove any harmful insects.

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Continuation of PSU information ( http://ssfruit.cas.psu.edu/chapter9/chapter9j.htm ) - This information seems to be more directed to commercial growers with hundreds or thousand of plants.

Plum Curculio

The plum curculio, Conotrachelus nenuphar (Herbst), is a weevil, a type of beetle. It is dark brown, 1/4 inch long, and has four humps on its back and a long (one-third of the body length) snout projecting forward and downward from its head. The beetles overwinter as adults under debris in the woods or field margins and migrate into the fields at about petal fall. They migrate more heavily when temperatures exceed 75°F, and are slowed significantly when the weather is damp and cool (below 70°F). Plum curculio usually is more prevalent on plants adjacent to woods, fence rows, and trashy fields.

Females lay eggs in shallow pits excavated on the surface of green berries. Usually a single egg is laid in each berry, and a crescent-shaped scar develops on the surface at this site. Upon hatching, larvae burrow into the fruit where they feed on the pulp for about 2 weeks, many times causing the fruit to drop. Infested berries sometimes remain on the plant, however, and can contaminate harvested flats. Fully grown larvae leave the fruit, burrow into the soil, and pupate within an earthen chamber. The adults emerge about 4 weeks later. Most of these adults enter diapause after several weeks of feeding, but if green berries are still present, a few will mate and produce a second generation.

Infestations of plum curculio usually can be detected by examining green berries for the typical oviposition scar. These berries are usually the first to turn blue. Adult curculio are secretive and nocturnal, but they can be found early in the morning or late in the evening by shaking the branches of a bush over a white cloth that has been placed on the ground. Adults disturbed in this manner drop onto the sheet and feign death, folding their legs tightly against their body, remaining motionless. They can be mistaken easily for debris.

Because the weevil spends much of its life cycle on the ground under the bushes, frequent cultivation can facilitate its control. Effective control can be obtained by postpollination applications of insecticides. Make sure flowers have dropped from treated blocks so bees will not be killed.

Cranberry Fruitworm

Found throughout the eastern United States wherever wild blueberries grow, the cranberry fruitworm, Acrobasis vaccinii (Riley), affects cultivated blueberries that are poorly maintained. This pest overwinters as a fully grown larva in the litter near the soil surface under the bushes. The small, brown, adult moths emerge when the berries of early varieties begin to form, and they begin inserting eggs along the rim of the calyx cup. After hatching from the egg, the larva enters the berry. It eventually webs together several berries with silk, feeding inside as many as four. One generation hatches each year. The cranberry fruitworm infestation is characterized by masses of brown frass (excrement) and silk.

Cranberry fruitworm infestations can be difficult to detect early. Look for a pin-sized entry hole near the stem of any small shrunken berries that have turned blue, and then open adjacent berries to find the larva. The distinctive frass and webbing do not appear until later in the larva’s lifetime when it begins to move between berries. One method of control for this pest (and for cherry fruitworm) is to pick and destroy infested berry clusters showing evidence of webbing. Repeated disking to eliminate weeds and trash also helps in its control. Pesticides used for plum curculio also usually result in control of cranberry fruitworm.

Cherry Fruitworm

The cherry fruitworm, Grapholitha packardi (Zeller), overwinters as large larvae in cavities usually made in the dead wood on the bush. The small, dark grey moths with brown banded wings emerge in the late spring. The green-white flattened eggs are laid on the undersurfaces of leaves and on the fruit. After hatching, the larvae enter the berries. The 3/8-inch pink and red larvae usually feed on one berry at a time and then penetrate and feed on another. Unlike cranberry fruitworms, the cherry fruitworms seal entrance holes with silk so that frass is not visible outside the berries, and an infestation is evidenced only by prematurely blue, shrunken berries webbed together by silk.

Both fruitworms can be controlled with two insecticide sprays. Apply the first at petal fall on a variety-by-variety basis to avoid poisoning bees. It is important to remove bee hives from the area before any insecticide spraying takes place. Spray again about 10 days later.

Blueberry Maggot

The blueberry maggot, Rhagoletis mendax (Curran), is the major pest of blueberries in many parts of the Northeast; however, blueberry plantings in Pennsylvania have not been heavily attacked to date. The presence of infested fruit at harvest can result in the condemnation of whole fields of harvested fruit. Moreover, the control of the insect is complicated by its long emergence period, its migration tendencies, and the fact that it usually does not attack fruit until after harvest has begun.

The female fly is about 3/16 inch long. The abdomen is pointed and black with white cross bands. The wings are clear and marked with heavy black bands in the shape of an upside-down “W.” Several other species of fruit flies can be confused with blueberry maggot if they are not inspected carefully.

Overwintering as pupae buried anywhere from just beneath the leaf litter to 6 inches deep in the soil, the blueberry maggots emerge from the soil as flies in June or July. After emerging, the flies, which live for about 30 days, spend the first 2 weeks resting and feeding on nectar, dew, and honeydew. Mating takes place near the end of this resting period, and females seek large, ripened berries in which to lay eggs. The female pierces the skin of the fruit with her egg-laying apparatus and deposits a single egg in each berry. Each fly may lay up to 100 eggs in a 2- to 3-week period. Upon leaving the berry, the female deposits a chemical that deters other flies from laying eggs in that berry. The egg hatches in about 5 days, and the larva burrows into the berry and feeds on the pulp for about 2 weeks. The mature larva leaves the berry and drops to the soil to pupate and remain until the next summer. Only one generation hatches each year, but a few pupae may remain in the soil for 2 to 3 years.

The potential for infestations of blueberry maggots can be assessed by trapping adults before their numbers reach damaging levels. The traps are yellow, sticky boards placed near the planting at least a week before the first flies are expected to emerge (early June). These boards are baited with a feeding attractant, either ammonium acetate or protein hydrolysates. Baited traps can be purchased or made. Trapping should continue through harvest, and the traps should be replaced every 3 weeks or when they become clogged with insects. The flies on each trap should be counted and removed each week. Insecticides should be applied when three adults per trap per week or five adults per field per week are found. NOTE: Several other fly species will be trapped on the boards (along with other insects). Make sure that only blueberry maggot flies are counted. If species identification is a problem, consult your county extension agent.

If control is necessary, a relatively nontoxic, short residual insecticide should be used so that it does not interfere with harvest. If ripe berries are present, they should be harvested before the spray is applied. Tank mixing the insecticide with protein hydrolysate will increase the treatment efficacy. Once spraying has begun, it should be continued with an application every 7 to 10 days until all unharvested fruit has dropped.

Scales, Including Putnam Scale and Terrapin Scale

These insects may be common in blueberry plantings, especially if pruning has been neglected for several years and the scales’ parasites and predators have been destroyed by insecticide sprays. Scales spend most of their lives as legless, sedentary individuals, usually clustered with other scale insects to form what appears to be a crust, in the case of Putnam scale, Aspidiotus ancylus (Putnam); or shiny brown hemispheres, in the case of terrapin scale, Lecanium nigrofasciatum (Pergande); on the wood surface. Some scales also reside on leaves and fruit.

Males are produced in late summer, and after they mate, the females settle on the wood to overwinter. Live offspring issue forth in the spring to early summer in the form of “crawlers,” thereby effecting the spread of these insects. Scales feed by removing sap from the plant, and can reduce vigor, decrease yield, and even cause the decline of the plant. Some scales also produce large quantities of honeydew, a sugary liquid that coats the leaves and fruit and promotes the growth of sooty mold, which can decrease berry quality.

Good scale control is accomplished first by good pruning practices. Removing and destroying old wood during pruning often does much to reduce scale populations. The second approach is the use of dormant oils to smother the overwintering scales. Cover sprays during the growing season usually are ineffective because the scales are protected by their secreted “shell;” however, sprays timed to coincide with crawler emergence can be effective.

Again, this seems much worse than I have experienced.  Keeping the blueberries in a well drained and open area with full sun is ideal to keeping down rot and fungi.  At any sign of disease, simply cut away that portion of the plant and through it in the garbage. Then wash hands before handling other plants.

Keep the plants fertilized and water properly.
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http://ssfruit.cas.psu.edu/chapter9/chapter9k.htm

Disease Description and Management

Blueberry cultivars differ in their susceptibility to the various diseases. See the section on Cultivar Selection for more information.

Botrytis Blight and Fruit Rot

Botrytis blight and fruit rot is a common occurrence, especially in cool, humid weather on many crops throughout the world.

Symptoms and Disease Cycle

Botrytis blight is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, which overwinters on infected plants. Under favorable conditions, the fungus can infect blossoms, twigs, and fruit. Tips of infected shoots will die back and turn brown to black. Infected blossoms appear water-soaked and turn brown, and brown discoloration can spread down the twig. Blighted blossoms often cling to clusters. Immature fruits shrivel and turn a bluish purple, whereas ripe, mature fruits become tan. In damp weather, all infected plant parts become covered with the characteristic “gray mold” of the fungus. Spores of the fungus are disseminated primarily by wind.

Disease Management

Cultural practices that improve air movement, such as pruning, aid in the control of blight and fruit rot. Avoid excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer in the spring because rapidly growing tips are more susceptible.

Mummy Berry

Mummy berry is the most serious and widespread disease of highbush, lowbush, and rabbit eye blueberries. It is most serious in the North following moist, spring weather conditions. Crop losses can be severe, depending on environmental conditions and cultivar susceptibility. Blueberry cultivars differ in their susceptibility to this disease.

Symptoms and Disease Cycle

Mummy berry is caused by the fungus Monilinia vaccinii-corymbosi. Spores within berries infected by this pathogen can remain viable in or on the soil for several years. In the spring, tips of the newly infected leaves, buds, stems, and flower clusters suddenly will wilt and turn brown and eventually will be covered with a powdery mass of spores produced by the fungus. When nearly mature, infected berries become dry and shriveled and drop early. These shriveled berries, on which the fungus will overwinter, are called “mummies.” In the spring, cup-shaped fruiting bodies are produced on the mummies and release spores that infect new plants. Mummy berry usually is more severe in low-lying areas of the field.

Disease Management

Clean cultivation aids in the control of this disease. Remove and dispose of fallen leaves and old berries either by burying or burning. Cover old berries with at least 2 inches of soil by disking between rows and hoeing under plants before flowers appear. Before berries blossom, thoroughly cultivate between rows and under plants after each hard rain. The Coville, Collins, Darrow, and Bluetta varieties may have some resistance. Susceptible varieties include Weymouth, Bluecrop, Berkeley, Blueray, Earliblue, and Jersey.

Phomopsis Canker and Twig Blight

Only in recent years has Phomopsis twig blight and canker become an important disease of blueberries. Bushes that have been weakened by other factors usually are more prone to infection. In addition to twig blight and canker, the fungus causes a fruit rot.

Symptoms and Disease Development

Phomopsis canker is caused by the fungus Phomopsis vaccinii, which overwinters in infected plant parts. The primary symptom of twig infection is a blighting of one-year-old woody stems that have flower buds. The fungus enters the flower buds and eventually moves into the stem. Infected stems will wilt and die, and young twigs will die back from elongated cankers produced by the fungus. Cankers on one-year-old stems become obvious by early summer and continue to progress downward, eventually encircling the entire shoot. In hot weather, leaves on infected twigs turn brown and remain attached to the stem. As canes mature, they become girdled by the diseased lesions. Fruiting structures of the fungus will form on dead twigs and leaves. These structures produce spores that are spread primarily by rain splash. Infected fruit are soft and often split and leak juice.

Disease Management

Recommendations include removing and burning all blighted or discolored wood during dormant pruning. When blighted tips appear in the summer, cut shoots back to a point where the pith appears normal. No commercial cultivars show strong resistance to Phomopsis canker. A few blueberry cultivars vary in their resistance to the twig blight phase.

Virus Diseases

(From Highbush Blueberry Production Guide. See References, Appendix 3.)

Blueberries are susceptible to a number of virus and virus-like diseases. Virus diseases are spread to healthy blueberry plants by vectors that include primarily aphids, nematodes, leafhoppers, and occasionally honeybees, which can spread virus-infected pollen. Virus diseases also are spread by diseased plants from infected nursery stock. Once a bush is infected with a virus, it remains infected for the life of the plant.

Virus diseases cannot be controlled like a fungal or bacterial disease with chemicals. The best control for virus diseases is prevention and sanitation measures. Suggested control practices include planting virus-free clean stock plants in clean soil, destroying alternate hosts such as wild blueberries that may harbor viruses, removing and destroying plants that are diseased or suspected of having virus infections, and controlling insect and nematode vectors.

Some of the more common viruses that affect blueberries are listed below.

Blueberry Scorch Virus

Blueberry scorch virus can cause severe flower and leaf browning in highbush blueberries. All varieties of highbush blueberry are considered susceptible. The varieties Bluecrop, Bluetta, Concord, Jersey, Olympia, Washington, and U-154 are tolerant in that they remain symptomless when infected and do not suffer any significant yield loss. The varieties Pemberton, Berkeley, and Dixi exhibit the most severe symptoms. The reaction to this virus in other varieties is not known.

The symptoms of blueberry scorch first appear in late April to early May during bloom. Symptoms in some varieties consist primarily of a blossom blight with a few brown leaves near the blighted flower clusters and some marginal yellowing of leaves produced on older wood (Pemberton and Dixi fit this category). Affected bushes develop symptoms every year. In Pemberton and Dixi, the twigs with blighted blossoms and leaves often die back 2 to 4 inches. Berkeley plants are affected most severely; they show extensive leaf death and can be killed in 3 to 6 years. Other varieties remain symptomless or exhibit only yellowing on the leaves of older wood. The blighted blossoms often are retained throughout the summer but fail to develop into fruit.

Blueberry scorch can spread rapidly in the field, and is most likely transmitted by aphids. The best method of control is to plant virus-free stock. The spread of the virus has been recorded only over short distances. If no known blueberry scorch exists in close proximity to a grower’s field, scorch should not become a problem. The problem occurs when a neighbor has tolerant varieties that are infected with this virus; these will be a constant source of potential new vector-spread infections. If an infection is observed early, when only a few plants are showing symptoms, then an aphid control program combined with removing and burning diseased bushes over a 3-year period should prevent further spread of this virus.

Blueberry Shock Ilarvirus

Blueberry shock ilarvirus can cause severe flower and leaf death in highbush blueberries. It has been reported in Washington and Oregon. All varieties of highbush blueberry are considered susceptible to the virus. Bluechip and Spartan are tolerant; when infected, they remain symptomless and do not suffer any significant yield loss. Berkeley, Bluecrop, Bluejay, Blueray, Bluetta, Collins, Darrow, Earliblue, Elliot, Jersey, Patriot, and Weymouth exhibit symptoms. The reaction of other varieties to this virus is unknown.

The disease at first was confused with blueberry scorch, since the symptoms are similar. Bushes infected with this virus develop a shock reaction: they exhibit symptoms for 1 to 4 years, then recover—that is, they no longer show symptoms. These bushes are still infected with the virus, however, and serve as a source of inoculum.

The symptoms of blueberry shock first appear in late April to early May during bloom. Infected flowers do not persist as they do with scorch infections. The bushes produce a second flush of leaves, and by late summer look normal, but have little or no fruit. In some cases, leaves that do not blight develop thin red ringspots that are visible on both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaf blade. This contrasts with red ringspot disease, in which the red ringspots are visible on only the upper surface of the leaf.

Blueberry shock virus can spread rapidly in the field. Most ilarviruses are likely transmitted by pollen, but this strain moves much more rapidly than other members of the group. The increased movement speed may be due to the shape of the blueberry flower, since the bees probably do considerable damage to the flower during pollen and nectar collection, allowing the virus access to the plant’s internal system. In fields that have been mapped, the disease appears to spread out radially from a center of infection. The virus spreads most rapidly in Berkeley, perhaps because this variety is highly susceptible to the virus or because of some slight flower alteration that favors spread.

The best method of control is to plant virus-free stock. The spread of the virus in a field has been recorded only over short distances, so if there is no known source of shock virus nearby, a grower’s field should not become infected. What can put a field at risk is a neighboring field in which the disease has run its course; the infected but recovered bushes serve as a source of inoculum. Blueberry shock is probably pollen-borne; growers should be careful not to bring in beehives from fields that might be infected. This has been a means of spread for a related virus in cherries.

Sheep Pen Hill Disease

Sheep pen hill disease is similar to blueberry scorch. It can cause serious yield losses where it occurs, but it has been reported only in limited areas of New Jersey. Variety reaction to sheep pen is variable, but no variety has shown complete resistance.

The first distinctive symptoms appear at bloom. Flowers do not fill out normally, remaining small and unopened. This is followed by flower and twig browning, then wilting of new vegetative shoots within 10 days after bloom. This blighted condition persists into June when a second flush of growth occurs. Little or no fruit will ripen, although other symptoms will be masked later in the season. Disease development also is strongly influenced by environment, especially prolonged wetness during the dormant season.

The agent that spreads the virus has not been identified. Surveys indicate a random pattern of spread that is active and variable from year to year.

Use clean plant material when propagating. Remove diseased plants from established fields to reduce spread.

Shoestring Disease

Shoestring disease is probably the most well-known virus disease, occurring primarily in Michigan and New Jersey. It has been seen in North Carolina and Washington, but is not important in these two states. In Michigan, bush and yield losses were over $3 million in 1981.

The most prominent symptoms are elongated reddish streaks about 1/8 inch wide by 1/2 to 3/4 inch long on current-year and 1-year-old stems, especially on the side exposed to the sun. During blossoming, flowers of infected bushes exhibit pinkish to reddish petals. (Note that Blueray has naturally reddish petals.) Infected leaves often are straplike, hence the name “shoestring.” Many leaves on a bush might appear this way, although in some cases just a few clumps near the crown will show this symptom. A few leaves may show red vein-banding or reddish streaking along the midrib of the leaf. In some cases, an “oak leaf” pattern will show on the leaf blade. Other leaves may be crescent-shaped and partially or totally reddened. Infected stems may appear crooked, especially the tip-end half.

Shoestring disease spreads “down the row,” or from bush to bush. This is because the virus is spread by the blueberry aphid. The aphid picks up the virus as it feeds on an infected bush and then, when it moves to the next bush in the row to feed (the bushes usually are touching), it passes the virus to the next bush. There is a 4-year latent period; that is, it takes 4 years from the time of first infection until the symptoms begin to develop. Shoestring-infected wild blueberries also have been found in the wooded areas surrounding commercial plantings.

Diseased propagation wood has been an important factor in the spread of shoestring disease from one field to another.

In fields having infected bushes, aphicides provide the best control. The first insecticide application should begin when the first aphids appear on the terminals of the stems, usually by late May or early June. Two or three sprays may be required throughout the growing season to keep aphid levels low. Infected bushes should be killed or removed. Growers who use mechanical harvesters must wash them to remove aphids; it has been shown that aphids can be carried from a source bush to bushes 60 or more spaces down the row.

Shoestring disease has been seen in the field in Jersey, Rubel, and Blueray cultivars. Elliott and Spartan have been susceptible in experiments. In the field, Bluecrop seems to be resistant.

Blueberry Leaf Mottle Disease

Leaf mottle disease currently is found only in Michigan, but it could appear in other states at any time. This disease is potentially devastating because it is caused by a pollen-borne virus spread by honeybees. Controlling the disease may mean reducing pollination. Within a few years after the onset of symptoms, leaf mottle disease kills back the stems of the bush and greatly reduces the bearing surface. Eventually the bush dies.

Rubel shows the most severe symptoms. Bushes that have been infected for 5 or 6 years develop a severe dieback of older stems, leaving only stunted and deformed new growth emanating from the crown area. Leaves show a mottling pattern, sometimes with yellow, roughly circular “windows” that are apparent if the leaf is held up to light. In the most severe cases, leaf malformations and leaf strapping occur. On Jersey, symptoms are much milder; stem dieback is less prevalent, as are stunting and growth reduction. The terminal leaves, especially in the crown area, are rosetted due to the shortening of internodes. The color of these rosetted terminals is a yellowish pale green. In general, the leaves of infected bushes are smaller than normal.

Leaf mottle spreads through virus-infected pollen moved by honeybees. Honeybees and hives are an integral part of blueberry culture, but they carry virus-infected pollen in their pollen sacs. Bees also transfer virus-infected pollen from one individual to another in the hive. Honeybees have been tagged at a hive and found in other hives 660 yards away. Tagged honeybees from a given hive also have been observed foraging in blueberries up to a mile away from the hive. Leaf mottle in one 20-acre commercial field in Michigan spread from a few infected bushes to more than 50 percent of the bushes in less than 10 years. Diseased propagation wood could be a second factor in the spread of this disease from one planting to another.

The best control is to kill and remove all infected bushes from the field. Symptoms of the disease are not always distinct, and the first symptoms often do not appear until 4 years after infection.

Placement of beehives is important. If, for example, a grower’s field does not have the disease, but a neighbor’s does, the grower should place hives as far as possible from the neighbor’s field. If a grower has one block with disease and another nearby block without disease, again, the hives should be placed such that the distance between the virus source in one block and the hives in the other block is as large as possible. Hives should be used only once in a field during the blossom season.

Necrotic Ringspot Disease and Tomato Ringspot Virus Disease

Necrotic ringspot and tomato ringspot are discussed together here because of the similarity of their symptoms. Necrotic ringspot disease, caused by tobacco ringspot virus, is by far the more important of the two diseases in terms of frequency. Both of these diseases cause a general decline of the bush.

Necrotic ringspot disease has been reported in Arkansas, Connecticut, Oregon, Illinois, Michigan, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey. It is common in the varieties Pemberton, Stanley, Rubel, Concord, Collins, and Earliblue. Tomato ringspot virus disease has been reported in Michigan, Oregon, Pennsylvania, and Washington. In the field, it has been observed in Earliblue. Both causal viruses are very common in fruit crops and in woody ornamental plants. In addition, both viruses are found in many weeds that occur in fruit plantings.

Necrotic ringspot disease: Varieties such as Pemberton and Earliblue exhibit stem dieback and bush stunting. Leaves are deformed and somewhat thickened. Leaves may become yellow and show blackish spots 1/16 to 1/8 inch in diameter. These spots may fall out, leaving a shothole effect. On other susceptible varieties (for example, Concord and Stanley), symptoms usually are expressed as short internodes on stem terminals and small straplike leaves. The twigs may show brownish, necrotic spots 1/16 to 1/8 inch in diameter. Fruit production often is greatly reduced.

Tomato ringspot virus disease: In Earliblue, leaves are often malformed and have circular chlorotic spots on them, 1/16 to 1/8 inch in diameter. In addition, stems, twigs, and branches may exhibit circular, brownish necrotic spots of similar size. Younger terminal leaves tend to be strap-shaped and have a mottled pattern (alternating yellowish to greenish stippling). Fruit production may be reduced.


Both diseases are spread by the dagger nematode and through diseased propagation wood. One indication that the disease is spread by the dagger nematode is that symptoms spread slowly in a circular pattern at a rate of about 3 feet per year in all directions.

The best control for these diseases is prevention. Plant only virus-tested clean stock and test soils for the presence of nematodes.

If infection is found in an established field, control becomes more complicated. Infected bushes must be identified by inspection. Once the areas of infection have been identified in a field, remove all infected bushes along with major roots and the crown. Thoroughly fumigate the soil with a liquid fumigant. After a 2-week aeration period, replant with virus-tested clean stock.

Red Ringspot Disease

Red ringspot disease is an important virus disease in New Jersey. It also is present in Arkansas, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Michigan, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, and Oregon. In Michigan, a test comparing 10 healthy bushes with 10 diseased bushes in the same planting revealed up to a 25 percent crop loss. The varieties that most commonly exhibit symptoms are Blueray, Bluetta, Burlington, Cabot, Coville, Darrow, Earliblue, and Rubel. Jersey and Bluecrop seem to be resistant or immune.

Stems at least 1 year old often exhibit reddish brown spots with green centers. The spots, 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter, also develop on the upper surfaces of older leaves in mid- to late summer. The powdery mildew fungus can cause similar symptoms on both sides of the leaf. Rancocas may have circular light areas of blotching on the fruit. Bluetta sometimes shows a red ringspot-like disorder.

Circumstantial evidence points to the mealybug as a vector in the spread of this disease. Other vectors may be involved as well. Virus-infected propagation stock is a means of introducing the disease into a new planting.

Because the vector has not yet been identified, the main form of control is prevention, by planting virus-tested clean planting stock. If diseased plants are seen in a planting, they should be rogued out and destroyed.

Mosaic Disease

Mosaic disease previously was thought to be a genetically caused variegation disorder. In 1957, it was shown to be of virus or virus-like origin. The disease has occurred in plantings of highbush blueberries throughout the eastern United States, Michigan, Indiana, Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia.

The disease has been observed on older varieties of highbush blueberry, such as Cabot, Concord, Earliblue, Pioneer, Rubel, and Stanley. Mosaic symptoms typically appear on a few basal shoots only. In some cases, the whole bush shows symptoms.

Symptoms include mild to brilliant mottle and mosaic patterns of chrome yellow, yellow, and yellow green on leaves. Sometimes the leaves show areas of pink. The distribution of symptoms on a bush can be spotty or ephemeral, showing in a given year and not showing the next year, and then reappearing a year later. On Coville, the mosaic pattern is less brilliant. Rather than a bright yellow mosaic, the pattern is a light green alternating with a deep green on the leaves.

Mosaic virus spreads in the field with the blueberry aphid as the vector. Diseased planting stock is responsible for the introduction of mosaic into plantings.

Insecticides applied for the control of the blueberry aphid should reduce the spread of mosaic disease. Plant virus-tested stock to prevent occurrence in new plantings.

Stunt

Stunt is caused by a mycoplasmalike organism, not a virus. Stunt is a very important disease of blueberry throughout the United States and eastern Canada. Most varieties of highbush blueberry are susceptible. Rancocas is the only variety with a high degree of resistance. Stunt is found in wild highbush and lowbush in the woods surrounding commercial plantings. No yield data are available on the losses caused by stunt, but symptomatic bushes usually are less than half the size of healthy bushes, and crop yields vary from very light to none.

Overall dwarfing of the bush is the primary symptom, hence the name “stunt.” Small leaves that are cupped downward or puckered are characteristic symptoms. Leaves of infected bushes are often yellow, with yellowing most pronounced along leaf margins and between lateral veins. Midribs and lateral veins usually retain normal green coloration. Yellow areas often turn a brilliant red in the late summer. Stem internodes become shortened, and growth of normally dormant buds causes twiggy branching.

Stunt is actively spread in the field by the sharp-nosed leafhopper. The pattern of stunt disease spread appears random. Leafhoppers are strong fliers and may come into a field from a great distance. Using diseased stock also is an important means of introducing the disease into a planting.

Insecticides applied on a timely basis to control the leafhopper help keep the disease in check. Research has shown that leafhopper populations start increasing at about the time of petal fall. Under Michigan conditions, one peak brood occurs in early July and a second in early September. Roguing and destroying symptomatic diseased plants is very important in controlling the disease. Use virus-tested planting stock when establishing a new field.

Some of the fungi or rots may be controlled by spraying 'Listerine' mouthwash.  I will check more on this.  I believe it was referenced by Master Gardener Jerry Baker.

Crop Profile for Blueberries in New York (Prepared March 9, 2000)

General Production Information
 -   State Rank:  9
 -  % U.S. Production: NA
 -  Acres of Bearing Age: 700
 -  Acres Harvested: 700 (1.9 million pounds)
 -  Cash Value: $1,730,000
 -  Yearly Production Costs: $4,250 (once the planting is mature)

Production Regions in New York

South of a line from Syracuse to Glens Falls; Pulaski and South

Production Methods

Blueberries require fairly specific soil and climatic conditions. It takes between eight and 12 years for blueberries to reach full production. They require an average growing season of 160 days and late spring or early fall frost can damage plants. The best blueberry soils are acidic (pH below 5.5) and very sandy. Blueberries will also grow in soils high in organic matter, such as a peat type of soil. Organic matter increases the water holding capacity of sandy soils.

Irrigation is important because blueberry root systems are shallow and lack root hairs; this puts them at a disadvantage when the soil dries out. Blueberry soils are often found in topographically low areas so blueberries are very susceptible to spring frosts. Cold winter temperatures are probably the major factor in determining the total production of blueberries for a region in any given year. Price is very stable from year to year since most fruit is direct-marketed in New York. Because of the low topography of blueberry sites, waterlogged soils are a problem in the spring. Many growers own their own sprayers and do their own insecticide and fungicide applications.

Plants are set in early spring at 4 to 5 feet apart with rows 10 to 12 feet apart. Blueberries require regular pruning to produce high yields of large fruit. The most fruitful blueberry canes are four to six years old and 1 to 2 inches in diameter at the base. Pruning is used to manage bush size and shape. Blueberry twigs require at least 15% full sunlight to initiate flower buds.

Costs of establishing and maintaining a blueberry planting are high, but returns from well managed plantings on suitable sites can be substantial. The common row and plant spacings require between 1,000 and 1,200 plants per acre. Two-year-old blueberry plants cost between $2.50 and $3.50, so it will cost between $1,000 and $2,400 per acre for plants alone.

No crop will be harvested the first two years. Properly managed plantings will yield 400 to 800 lb/acre the third season and 1,400 to 2,000 lb by the fourth year. Full crops of 4,000 to 6,000 lb/acre are generally harvested after six to eight years, although mature plantings can yield in excess of 10,000 lb/acre under optimal conditions. Well-maintained blueberry bushes remain productive for at least 15 to 20 years.

Commodity Destination(s):

Fresh Market 95%
Processing 5%

http://www.foodnavigator.com/news/news-NG.asp?id=54296

A compound identified in blueberries could be the next key health ingredient in food formulations as researchers find it can effectively lower cholesterol.

I pick wild blueberries..or called the  Huckelberry. They stay in season a long time here. Its there flavor that will knock your socks off! I made a bunch of jam, and froze 10 quarts of washed berries.
 I found hundreds of plants on a abandoned run way of a closed USAF base. growing right up through the cracks.

Charity, that's pretty cool.  Keep track of those wild blueberries.  If you can, transplant some near your home during winter when they are dormant.

I would like to get my hands on some wild blueberries so I can propagate them with the more domesticated variety.  Wild blueberries grow in the hills (low mountains) like the Catskills and Shawangunks in NY, not too far from where I live.  There are also wild brambles (raspberries and blackberries) around too.  I have wild blackberries growing on the hill behind my house.

I'm not sure they could live in my soil. I live on top of a great sand hill, even after I added tons of compost and top soils, it drains dry with in one day of a heavy rain.
 Birds gave me some wild strawberrys, which have run a-muck on the hill. And I plan on just letting them grow, the wild life goes crazy over them. :cheekysmiley.gif:

Blueberries are cultivated in sandy soil based on what I have seen of blueberry plantations.  Their root systems are very localized.  Like brambles, blueberries need slightly acidic soil conditions with pH about 5.5-6.

Drainage is also important so the roots don't rot, so it sounds like your sandy hill is ideal.

I was surprised to find wild blueberries growing near mountain tops - actually along some ridges, at 2000 ft and above.  The plants were low bushes, actually more like shrubs, and they were growing in sandy soil.  The fruit was smaller than that of my domestic plants, and that may have been due to lack of nutrients, non-optimal pH, or dry (slight drought) conditions.

Wild blueberrys are a lot smaller then domestic ones. But I will try and transplant some. Maybe get ones from each end of the landing strip, incase I need cross pollenation?

I have 6 varieties of blueberries - all of domestic varieties.  I do plan to procure some wild varities for purposes of cross-pollination.

When it comes to genetic diversity - the more, the merrier!

Well, now I have 6 varieties - I just planted my 7th blueberry bush.  Of the 6 I had, two plants were the same variety.  So now I have:

Jersey (2)
Bluecrop
Bluejay
Blueray
Patriot (high bush)
Elliot (high bush - late season bearing)

My wife came across a site that has a nice list of blueberry varieties.

http://www.citygardening.net/bluevar/

There are several different species of blueberries which are grown in North America for their fruit.

Lowbush Blueberries(V. augustifolium Ait) grows wild in northeastern states and Canada. The plants grow between 6 to 18 inches high.  Common lowbush has shiny smooth tooth leaves. Black Lowbush (V. augustifolium forma nigrum) has blue-green leaves with shiny black berries. They are pollinate by various types of bees. The berries have excellent flavor but are of a smaller size.

Highbush blueberries (V. corymbosum L) grow wild from Florida to Maine and from Ontario to southern Michigan. The plants grow to between 8 to 10 feet high. The berries are sweet with a mild flavor. They have been grown up into zone 3 but their southern range is limited by a fairly high chilling requirement of 700 hours or greater.

Dryland Blueberries (V. pallidum Ait) grow from northern Alabama and Georgia to Maryland and West Virginia. The plants grow between 1 to 5 feet high and spread by underground shoots. They are drought resistant and survive in fairly poor soils. The bluberries are tasty and ripen later than lowbush and highbush cultivars.

Evergreen blueberries (V. ovatium Par.) are grown in California, Oregon, and Washington. The plants grow up to 20 feet high. The berries are shiny black with a very strong flavor which makes them more suitable for pies than eating fresh.

Mountain blueberries (V. membranaceaum Doug) grow in the northwest part of the United States. They grow between 3 to 5 feet tall. The berries are black or maroon with a tart flavor.

Rabbiteye blueberries (V. ashei Read) grow in the southeastern part of the United States. They can grow between 10 to 25 feet high. They thrive in hot humid environments. They are not as cold hardy as other cultivars and so they are generally limited to growing in zones 6 or above. The berries are small and somewhat gritty. They generally required more than one cultivar to get good fruit set.

Southern highbush is a cross between northern highbush varieties and blueberry species native to Florida.

Highbush cultivars

Berkeley - Midseason. Zone 4 to 8. Large berries with a mild sweet flavor.
Bluechip - Midseason. Zone 3 to 7. Large firm berry.
Bluecrop - Midseason. Zone 4 to 7. Large bright blueberry with good slightly tart flavor.
Bluejay - Midseason. Zone 4 to 7. Medium to large blueberrie with a mild slightly tart flavor.
Blueray - Midseason. Zone 4 to 8. Large blue very sweet berries.
Bounty - Early to Midseason. Zone 3 to 7. Very large light blue escellent flavored berry
Bluetta - Early. Zone 3 to 7. Blue-black small to medium berry
Collins - Early. Zone 4 to7. Very large excellent flavored berry.
Coville - Late. Zone 5 to 8. Large intensly flavored blue berries.
Croatan - Early. Zone 3 to7. Medium to Large medium firm berry.
Darrow - Late. Zone 5 to 7. Large, light blue berries with an excellent flavor.
Duke - Early. Zone 5 to 7. Medium to large blueberry with a good flavor.
Earliblue - Early. Zone 5 to 7. Light blue medium to large berries with a sweet and mild flavor.
Elliot - Late. Zone 3 to 7. Light blue small to medium firm berry.
Ivanhoe - Early. Zone 5 to 7. Large blue sweet berries.
Jersey - Late. Zone 3 to7. Medium to large firm good tasting berry.
Patriot - Early to midseason. Zone 3 to 7. Large blue berry with a good flavor.
Sierra - Early to midseason. Zone 4 to 7. Large berry with excellent flavor.
Spartan - Early to Midseason. Zone 5 to 7. Large powderly blue berry with excellent flavor.
Top Hat - Early. Zone 3 to7. Medium average tasting berry.
Toro - Early to Midseason. Zone 3 to 7. Medium good flavored firm berry.
Wolcott - Midseason. Zone 3 to 7. Medium blue medium sized fruit

Rabbiteye cultivars (required two or more different cultivars to get fruit)

Aliceblue - Early. Zones 6 to 9. Medium to large light blue berry with sweet flavor.
Baldwin - Late. Zones 6 to 10. Firm dark blue berry with good flavor.
Beckyblue - Early. Zones 6 to 9. Medium to large berry with sweet flavor.
Bluebelle - Midseason. Zone 6 to 10. Large light blue berries with excellent flavor.
Bonita - Early. Zone 6 to 9. Light blue medium to large excellent flavored fruit.
Brightwell - Early to midseason. Zone 7 to 9. Medium light blue berry with a sweet flavor.
Briteblue - Late. Zone 6 to 10. Firm large blue sweet berries.
Centurion - Late. Zone 6 to 9. Medium to large blue berry with good taste.
Chaucer - Early to midseason. Zone 6 to 9. High yielding medium sized berry.
Choice - Mid to late. Zone 6 to 9. Medium dark colored berry.
Climax - Early. Zone 7 to 9. Medium to large dark blue berry with sweet flavor.
Delite - Late. Zone 6 to 10. Large light blue sweet berry.
Garden Blue - Early to midseason. Zone 6 to 10. Medium light blue excellent flavor berry.
Misty Blue - Zone 6 to 10. Large very sweet berry.
Powder Blue - Late. Zone 6 to 9. Medium very sweet berry.
Premier - Early to midseason. Zone 6 to 9. Large light blue berry with excellent flavor.
Southland - Mid to late season. Zone 6 to 9. Medium to large good tasting berry.
Tiftblue - Mid to late season. Zone 7 to 9. Large round light blue sweet berry.
Woodard - Early. Zone 6 to 9. Large firm light blue berry with excellent quality only when fully ripen.

Southern Highbush

Bladen - Early. Zone 6 to 10. Light blue medium sized berry.
Blue Ridge - Early to midseason. Zone 6 to 10. large firm light blue berry.
Cape Fear - Early. Zone 6 to 10. Light blue large berry.
Cooper - Early. Zone 6 to 10. Firm good tasting berry.
Georgia Gem - Early. Zone 6 to 10. Firm very good flavored berry.
Gulf Coast - Early. Zone 6 to 10. Firm excellent tasting berry.
Misty - Early. Zone 6 to 10. Light blue very large sweet berry.
O'Neal - Very early. Zone 6 to 10. Firm medium blue colored large good flavored berry.
Reveille - Early. Zone 6 to 10. Light blue firm medium size berry.
Sharpblue - Early. Zones 6 to 10. Dark blue large good flavored berry.
Sunshine Blue - Midseason. Zone 7 to 9. Light blue medium sized good
tasting berry.

Hybrids (between low and high bush species)
All are zones 3 to 7 and midseason.


Chippewa - Medium sized sweet berry.
Northblue - large sweet wild flavored berries
Northcountry - medium sweet berries
Northland - small excellent wild flavor berry.
Northsky - small to medium light blue berry with excellent wild flavor.
St. Cloud - firm small to medium light blue with a good flavor

There is lots of good information at this site.

 :koala